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Young Hee Lowery contemplates
leading the infamous “
route on Sentinel Rock,
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LOVE
AND HATE AT SEA
A Book About Wall Partners
by
Chongo
A
humorous examination of the unavoidable decision of choosing just who will be
the one who shares our big wall adventure – or perhaps, who chooses us instead
with whom to share theirs. Entertaining as they may be, the principles
explained can be applied to any serious endeavor that anyone, either assisted
or alone, dedicates their energy to accomplishing. Teamwork can be an elusive
goal, even when the teams are small as one. Love and Hate at Sea
highlights some of the most critical aspects of cooperating, even cooperating
with no one other than one’s self.
The classic, “two-headed”
climbing team. Photo by Jon Blair.
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FOREWORD
“This
book is an elaboration of the second chapter of THE COMPLETE BOOK OF BIG WALL CLIMBING, Volume One: The Ground Manual
(May 2001) (a complete how-to instruction book on big wall climbing). Like the chapter in the original work, the
elaboration here describes how to properly choose a big wall climbing partner,
how to improperly do so, an equally important, ask the question of just how fit
each one of us individually is, for being a good wall partner ourselves (even
if it is only to be a good partner to ourselves, while we climb alone).
“Choosing the right partner is an important – perhaps
the most important – aspect of any shared endeavor. The lessons taught here are based upon conclusions drawn from
many years of observing big wall climbers, both the successful ones, and the
less successful ones. It is with
careful thought that the principles for choosing an appropriate partner have
been identified and documented.
“Adversity
can become exaggerated in the big wall environment. Human reactions to it can become equally exaggerated. Such circumstances test the strength of the
human relationships that exist there, by testing the strength of the
individuals comprising those teams.
This book is based upon a variety of such tests, its conclusions drawn
from many such experiences.
Consequently, the validity of the principles included only rarely ever
fail to appropriately apply.
“Though
it may not be immediately apparent that its lessons and realities can be
applied to life in general, what is true for the big wall experience, is true
for any other equally demanding enterprise, such as any endeavor requiring
prolonged teamwork and cooperation: from something as complicated as
cohabitation, to something as fundamental as simply sharing the world with the
rest of the other individuals – both human and nonhuman alike – that are in it,
which is what living itself can hardly help but be, if we are not to exist in
the world perpetually isolated and always alone.”
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Ivo Ninov free climbing near the summit
of the Free Rider route of
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Excerpt…
“Perhaps you already have a wall partner, or you
might be one of a three-member team.
Maybe you have no partner at all, and need to find one. But maybe you have no partner because you
are convinced that you need none.
“If
this is your first big wall, then you will, without a doubt, have to find a
partner in order to be safe. If it is
not your first, then before you look for a partner, you might ask yourself a
couple of questions. Ask yourself if
you are a jerk, or if you are just so bitchin' that everyone else is a jerk? If
the answer to either of these questions is yes, then perhaps you have a
difficult time getting along with others.
Maybe you should consider doing everybody a favor by seeking no partner
at all, and climbing the wall alone.”
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Preface. . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . i
I. Wall Partners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
II. Team Travel . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
III. Team Size . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
IV. Successful and Unsuccessful
Approaches . . . 25
V. Yourself as a Partner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Glossary . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . 51
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© 2008 C. Tucker (Chongo)
All rights reserved.
Alex and Tomas Huber camping while
climbing some big wall somewhere.