The Complete Book of Big Wall Climbing...


This is the first in a series of volumes that explains, from start to finish, each and every thing that a competent free climber would need to know in order to safely and efficiently climb most multi-day grade V and grade VI big walls, and to do so with as little impact on the natural environment as possible. These ideas are based upon techniques and systems developed on the challenging granite walls of Yosemite Valley, California where traditionally, great climbers of the modern era have come to initiate or refine their big wall skills. Modern big wall climbing was invented there, and today nearly all, new big wall developments originate in Yosemite.

This book documents all of the latest methods that have evolved. Much is new and this is a very advanced book. Explanations are comprehensive, not terse. There is much to say. Completely new approaches are introduced that are not easily described without very in-depth and detailed discussions. It takes many pages to explain. These new methods apply to both solo travel and team travel. Including both requires many more pages. There are techniques for teams that are learning as well as those that know, for teams that want to move fast and for those that are content to take their time [moving slowly to enjoy the view]. This requires more pages still. The end result is what may be to some an intimidating volume of information. To be complete and thereby cover every aspect and permutation of the sport, it must be so. For most, only parts of the text will ever apply to any given climb - much will not (some text may never) - nonetheless, it's all still there.

The beginner wall climber will [normally] need to know only about team travel conducted in the most simple manner. Text covering advanced methods may be passed over as can any that applies to solo travel. Likewise, the practiced wall climber need not be concerned with more simple concepts and can concentrate on the more advanced. The solo traveler [assuming that they understand the simple and advanced both] may need read only that which pertains to solo travel. This book will tell you how to climb walls for whatever level of simplicity or complexity that applies and for however the climbing may be conducted.

No printed instructions can purport to be a guarantee of big wall success. Indeed, the consequences of big wall indulgence will prove to be disastrous for some. But do things as they are described in this text, and provided you can lead, read, and are adequately motivated, you will very likely reach the summit of your big wall and do so in relative ease and safety.

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